Pompeii was one of the most anticipated part of the trip, but turned out to be the most disappointing. Naples, which was only added to the itinerary at the last minute, left a much stronger impression.
Itinerary of the day: Rome → Pompeii → Naples → Museo Archeologico Nazionale → Rome → Colosseum night shoot
Today we started the first of our twelve-segment experience with Trenitalia. Coincidently we started with the most straight-forward routes and slowly progress to more and more connections. As easy as taking these trains can be, I still suggest the unexperienced to read up first about ticket rules, types of trains, the general process etc. (there are many great resources on the web) so one wouldn't end up like some clueless tourists I ran into...
Itinerary of the day: Rome → Pompeii → Naples → Museo Archeologico Nazionale → Rome → Colosseum night shoot
Today we started the first of our twelve-segment experience with Trenitalia. Coincidently we started with the most straight-forward routes and slowly progress to more and more connections. As easy as taking these trains can be, I still suggest the unexperienced to read up first about ticket rules, types of trains, the general process etc. (there are many great resources on the web) so one wouldn't end up like some clueless tourists I ran into...
Eurostar Frecciarossa was more than comfortable for my standards...we rode on most train classes during the trip except InterCity.
Later we learned to use automatic seat assignments lol. Going to the service desks would also be an option, but in the morning they were always crowded and slow-moving.
The other thing I thought was lacking was indication of carrozza on the platform (some stations have them, but most don't)...there was not really a way to find out where to wait for the right car. Not a big problem, but sometimes we guessed wrong and had to dash a with our luggages.
Napoli Centrale seemed bright and clean, unlike what most travel tales about Naples led me to believe. The station connects Trenitalia, Circumvesuviana and Metropolitana, so it took some inquiries with the locals to find my way around (how was I supposed to know metro tickets were only sold at a hole-in-the-wall tabacchi?).
Transferring to the local Circumvesuviana. We couldn't help but be a bit surprised when we saw the train...what a huge contrast to the ES train we just rode.
Close to the entrance, Pompeii's Forum is the most visited and the best place you can capture an iconic photo of the ruins with Mount Vesuvius.
Temple of Apollo.
Archeological finds placed in "Grain Stores", closed behind gates from visitors.
The Forum Baths.
All the buildings in the forum areas are worth a look, and most coach tour groups only make a stop in this area.
Trying to navigate in Pompeii was not so easy, as the only direction we had was a skinny grey post scattered at random corners. Building's entrances were discreet, and many alleyways shown on the map were closed. Each building were labeled with a number (for excavation purposes) that often got confused with the number indicated on the map.
Trying to navigate in Pompeii was not so easy, as the only direction we had was a skinny grey post scattered at random corners. Building's entrances were discreet, and many alleyways shown on the map were closed. Each building were labeled with a number (for excavation purposes) that often got confused with the number indicated on the map.
House of the Tragic Poet. I was unable to find the Cave Canem mosaic.
Stoves.
Before departure, my friends told me how amazing Pompeii was when they visited a decade ago. They saw so many frescoes and floor mosaics still at the site. Things obviously have changed since, as most arts were removed, and only the walls of the buildings were left. Once you exit the forum area, the streets looked bare.
Some buildings that looked quite interesting were usually closed to visitors.
I had on my hand a guidebook published in 2004. It described all the beautiful frescoes that could be seen in "Villa of Mysteries", located outside Pompeii's city walls.
There weren't that many to be seen, after we got there in about half an hour. This was the only one left, but not the one I was looking for.
Disappointed that we went all the way to Villa of Mysteries and not see many frescoes, we decided to take a different route and walk up the city walls.
It was a great choice, the views up there were much different.
We consumed our packed lunch near the Porta Vesuvio Gate while looking over the ruins.
After lunch, we visited the House of the Faun and House of the Vetti - again not much were left. Even the replica Alexander Mosaic was hardly visible.
Not giving up on Pompeii completely, we walked another 20 minutes to Porta di Nola gate on the far side of the ruins to get to the furthest amphitheatre area, only to find out it was closed off as well. At this point we finally had enough and started to head for the exit.
Not giving up on Pompeii completely, we walked another 20 minutes to Porta di Nola gate on the far side of the ruins to get to the furthest amphitheatre area, only to find out it was closed off as well. At this point we finally had enough and started to head for the exit.
Before we leave, I had to find the Lupanar (brothel). It's not far from the Forum but the building is small and not easy to find.
Erotic paintings advertising specialties of resident prostitutes.
Most of the photos I took at Pompeii are painfully uninspiring. This ruins has its merits, but the frustration of being limited access and lack of artworks really took a toll on the experience. The best part about this day at Pompeii was the picnic lunch at Porta Vesuvio.
If like me, one's attracted by the fame, Pompeii's still worthwhile but one morning would be sufficient.
We still got a few hours before returning to Rome, so I decided to see all those frescoes and mosaics we missed at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Naples.
Museo Archeologico Nazionale was amazing. I enjoyed it so much that I was so glad for the decision to come here.
It's a shame that these beauties are not placed at the site, but I understand they probably wouldn't last long if that was the case.
Frescoes that belonged in Villa of Mysteries.
The original Alexander Mosaic is such a majestic piece, but hardly anyone was looking at it! Many tourists seemed to steer away from Naples simply because of this city's reputation? Their loss really, as I thoroughly enjoyed my alone time with Alexander and Darius.
Uninhibited eros of the Roman times.
Bronze pendant with phallus used as an amulet. There's a penis on a penis? Penileception?
Since we were already in Naples, we headed to the famous Antica Pizzeria da Michele for dinner, about a 20 minute walk from the train station.
Traffic in Naples is chaotic but has an uncanny resemblance to Taiwan. There were signs that should be followed and signs that were "suggestions". Cross the roads in a constant tempo and the cars will swirl right around.
I've never seen the movie, but this pizzeria was the exact restaurant featured in Eat, Pray, Love.
The filming date was exactly the same date two years ago! Didn't plan it but kind of cool to know!
Service was fast, no-frills and the pizza was divine. Yes they did have a soggy crust that some might frown upon, but I love the chewiness. The huge chunks of goat mozzarella was the best part. Both Margherita and Marinara were delicious, and at a very economical price - all sizes of pizza are under €5.
After returning to Rome, we were all exhausted, but we dragged our feet for one last look at the Colosseum at night.
...and our last look at Old Bridge's gelato.
